06 June 2026 – Day trip to Margate!
Our friends Dr and Kt have been telling us how we must go to Margate for the last two years or so and on the 6th of June it finally happened! The group chat they organised was entitled ‘We’re all off to Sunny Margate’. When we saw the price of a return ticket we considered driving down, as it’d would be cheaper and potentially faster if we drove early. But we didn’t know the parking situation (turns out I didn’t see any parking bays, but also all spaces were taken by cars).
We found out there was free parking, but didn’t want to risk not finding a place, plus it would have meant no drinking for the driver. A Super off peak Day Return was £32, so £64 for two people. Cheaper by our car, which has a small engine.
But Dr got us a group saver ticket, so it cost £42 for the two of us, off-peak return. Yay, I didn’t want to drive anyway! We woke up early and got the train to Margate from Victoria at 7:40am. We arrived in Margate, after an enjoyable train journey with South Eastern Railway, at around 9:20am.
Now, for the sunny part. Halfway through the week we realised the weather would be atrocious. So we abandoned all hope for beach/swimming and packed waterproofs instead.
Boring paragraph about my ankle injury
I twisted my ankle quite badly last week so I’d have to wobble around town. Thankfully walking isn’t too bad, but stairs are tricky, especially going down. I just wore my walking boots for ankle support and hoped for the best. I like walking fast but I’ve had to slow down since tripping and it can be frustrating. Not being able to train Capoeira, run or skip is also heart breaking. In my nearly 20 years of running I’d never fallen, until last Saturday. I just tripped, twisted left ankle and grazed right knee – the grazed knee hurts more than the ankle sometimes. I think I might need to get x-ray soon, as it was getting better but then I overdid it on Thursday and it swelled up again. I spent first 48 hours doing RICE and it didn’t hurt – it was just quite swollen. I stopped the Ibuprofen – which I only took to reduce inflammation – after 3 days and by Thursday it looked less swollen and felt much better.
Then I did my usual Thursday workout (I’d been doing only low impact workouts prior to that) and went for a long walk and that was stupid and the next day it was swollen again and hurting. Will probably get some x-rays at some point in case it’s more than Grade 2 sprain, need to ensure it’s not some fracture as well (I doubt it).

So we walked from the station to the not sunny and rainy + windy Margate beach and viewed the tide pool and the sandy beach and the sea, which was nice – I hadn’t seen a beach for a while. There were about 5 people on the beach. One family was crab fishing on the tide pool. They caught a crab while we watched, and it was hilarious, because they all seemed very spooked by the crab and were screaming and laughing, while trying to get it into a bucket! There were 40-50mph wind gusts predicted for the day… We had even considered moving trip to another day but the tickets were non refundable and as they say ‘no such thing as bad weather just the wrong clothes’. My husband and K brought umbrellas, lol, I did too, but I didn’t try to use it! They did. It wasn’t fun for them but it was fun for me to laugh at their naivety. He didn’t even bring a baseball cap to shield his glasses from annoying raindrops. I mean, come on! Also, puzzling, there were signs saying ‘don’t swim’ in the tide pool. So what is the point of it?
We headed off to walk alongside the seafront, to the right, on Marine Drive -> Fort Hill and decided we needed drinks. We went to The Old Kent Market where some of the shops are tiny, so tiny it feels weird to actually go inside them. It was quite early in the day, but it felt like afternoon as I’d been up since 5:45am… So more coffee was drunk, while we sat opposite the micro pub ‘The Little Prince‘ which is the smallest pub in the UK… It was too early for alcohol though, so we just looked at the pub. The doors were open as they were stocking up for the day.
The Little Prince Pub @ The Old Kent Market

Two of our friends were coming later but we had a bit of time to kill until they arrived so we wandered around the area. J (my husband) said we should go to the Crab Museum, on Broad Street, but it wasn’t open yet, it opens at 11. It was raining hard, so we took refuge at an art gallery next door to the Crab Museum. We wondered around for 15 mins or so, looking at the art and taking silly photos and then off we went to the Crab Museum.
Crab Museum
I honestly didn’t know what to expect but was delightfully surprised by a sweetly humoured entrance with funny and cute drawings of evolution and amusing jokes on its yellow walls, a massive crab also stuck to the wall and then stairs leading us to the museum.
It’s not a big museum, but it manages to encapsulate the smallest museum within it, more on that later. The entrance is free, but donations are welcome and the shop is probably their way of paying the bills. There were some very amusing postcards on sale and other things at the Crab Museum shop. Most of the information is true and based on science – for example I had no idea the Horseshoe Crab has blue blood and its blood is invaluable to science and vaccines in particular. Read an interesting article on Horseshoe Crab’s non-consensual contribution to science. It’s a bit grim and 30% die in this blood letting process. The ones who survive are allegedly returned to… the lab? or the wild? I don’t quite know if they are farmed or captured. But that’s a whole other story for another day/writer.
Then there was the wonderful tall tale about the giant crab of Margate and the bearded lady video telling the tale. I think that was the only fib in the museum… There was also an even smaller room discussing capitalism and its environmental impact in the crab context, and a camera/video where a real person explained crab facts on a dead crab to a child. It only had barely open and it was already busy! The Crab Museum first opened in 2021 has won an award for The Best Museum in the UK by Time Out.
I needed to visit the toilet, so I did, and there I found the world’s smallest museum. The Carb Museum, brought on by dyslexia and humour. I had to show it to my friends because it’s too funny and oh how we laughed 😀
The Quietus article about Crab Museum, by Joseph Flaig – in case it disappears
Claws For Thought: Crab Museum Wins Hearts & Minds For Eco-Revolution
Ned Suesat-Williams, his brother Bertie, and Chase Coley run what may be the world’s only museum dedicated exclusively to decapod crustaceans. Joseph Flaig investigates
Published 9:09am 22 October 2022 Photo by Sheradon DublinIn 1862, Margate fisherman Thomas Gaskell made an incredible catch. From beneath the waves came a giant crab, two-and-a-half metres in length. Although the creature might have made Gaskell rich, he instead took it to live in his cottage, where it reportedly ate chopped eels and “showed a strange interest in the world of humans, grasping and ungrasping things in an attempt to learn”.
This blissful high point of human-decapod domestic relations was sadly doomed from the start. What followed is a sad and gruesome tale, involving angry mobs, a travelling freak show – and, ultimately, the death and dismemberment of a cruel and drunken circus master.
It is an incredible story. Can any of it be true? If it isn’t, what kind of untruth is it? What even is truth, anyway? These questions might initially seem beyond the remit of the Crab Museum, but they are in fact a central part of the attraction’s ambitious approach to entertainment and education.
Promising a “satisfyingly baffling day out”, the museum opened last year in a former pie factory in the Old Town of Margate. Although the team claim not to be experts, displays are packed with fascinating nuggets of information, and the staff are fonts of knowledge about crabs and associated topics – which, according to them, includes all scientific, political, and cultural knowledge, and a lot more asides.
“It’s a proof of concept that everything is related to each other. All knowledge is entwined. Like, intrinsically,” says Ned Suesat-Williams, one of three directors alongside his brother Bertie, and Chase Coley. “And also crabs are cool and funny looking. I stand by that, that’s a hill I will die on.”
Expertly wielding the twin claws of scepticism and the holistic perspective, the museum gently pushes visitors in a clear direction – the realisation that our current economic and political system allows, enables and profits from the destruction of precious natural systems, and that it can only be stopped by enlightened young minds fighting for a different way of doing things.
The museum gets to work quickly as you step into the entrance corridor, which doubles as a timeline of Earth’s history – one millimetre is a million years, and human history is in the final fraction of a millimetre. Upstairs, written displays are filled with factoids, jokes and philosophical conundrums, while exhibits are mainly focused around now-empty exoskeletons.
A horseshoe crab – not really a crab, apparently, or even a crustacean – is fixed to a metal board, simulated milky-blue blood draining into a kilner bottle. The liquid is used to test new medicines, the display tells us, flagging dangerous toxins and helping save millions of human lives in the process.
In the centre of the room is a diorama of ‘Crabton-on-Tyne’, using crabs from around the world in a tumultuous tableau of class warfare in 1926 England. A common decorator crab (Schizophrys aspera) is a penny-pinching paper mill boss, while a fascist moon crab (Matuta lunaris) attacks striking workers.
Perhaps the main attraction is the giant claw of Thomas Gaskell’s ill-fated crustacean companion, although the size of the massive nipper pales in comparison with the elaborate yarn spun around it.
A circuit of the main room ends at the Crustacean Identification Station, where a member of the team is often found highlighting the ocular peduncle of a local specimen, or assisting amateur carcinologists with their own finds from Margate Main Sands. The fragments of carapace, insects and other assorted marine life inspire wide-ranging mini-lectures and sprawling, tangential conversations, frequently returning to climate change and its political and economic context.The team also instigates conversation with an engaging, meme-centric online presence, with gently subversive anticapitalist takes on the monarchy, consumerism and more, and in-depth exploration of topics as diverse as the effect of noise on seagrass, microplastics and climate anxiety.
“The contradiction is, the future is quite bleak in some ways,” says Bertie. “If you terrify people, they become apathetic. They’re like: ‘The whole world is going to end, what’s the point of me doing anything about it?’… The alternative is you kid everybody on that everything’s fine, and that capitalism and big business is going to find a way to solve climate change. And then also nothing gets done.
“So actually, any kind of climate action has to go in between, like it’s sort of apocalyptic on one side and tokenistic on the other side, there has got to be something in between. And we think humour is quite a good way of doing that, because it avoids the terror.”
As the effects of the climate emergency become increasingly evident, the museum’s mission seems more important than ever. Crabs provide a useful ‘in’ to conversations with locals and visitors who have their own experiences discovering the creatures in nearby rockpools, says Ned, showing what is at risk from the environmental carnage of unfettered capitalism.
The approach is particularly important for younger visitors. “”If you inspire a child into thinking that crabs are cool, you’ve increased the chances of them being into science like tenfold,” he says. “The longer that the museum has been going on, the more we’ve overheard conversations from very young children, teenagers as well, saying ‘Science can be interesting.’ At a very base level, if we can play a small part in making a couple of scientists then the whole project is worth it.”
The museum celebrates its first birthday with a party this Saturday (22 October) and a ‘Crabaret’ for the Climate Emergency Fund next Saturday (29 October), featuring locally based musicians including soul jazz keyboardist and composer Jessica Lauren, and Falle Nioke, a singer and percussionist from Guinea. A fundraiser has also been set up to help it grow and to support its admirable policy of free entry.
Local people quickly welcomed the attraction, the brothers say, and frequently donate crab-related paraphernalia. One prize specimen was even wedged through the letterbox, soon finding itself in regular use at the Crustacean Identification Station.
Conversation there has turned to the process of carcinisation, by which crabs have repeatedly evolved on separate branches of the evolutionary tree. Could this mean they represent some sort of biological ideal?
Not exactly. “In many ecological niches, there is space for a crab,” Ned adds. “They represent resilience in many ways. They shed their shells and are born anew, they are masters of sea and land.”
An inspiration to all climate-concerned citizens, as we venture sideways into an uncertain future.
After that delightful experience we went to a junk, I mean, antique shop on King Street: Paraphernalia, Antiques & Vintage, one of many in Margate. Kt loves them, she’s proficient at looking for treasures. I got stuck looking at a box of old, zero context, photographs. Most of them had no date or any writing on the back so I could just make up stories in head about where they came from.
Then back to sit at an Old Kent Market table and wait for our friends, Fl and Fr who found us promptly and out we went again with lunch in mind. We walked for about 20mins, until it was time to eat. We had a table booked at 1pm at The Good Egg. Kt and Dr had learned from previous visits, that tables must always be booked or else you end up hungry in this town, which by the way, is very popular and I can see why. Even with awful weather there’s plenty to do. Everyone ate something wrapped in pitta bread and I had the Green Shakshuka
(Spiced lentils, spinach, baked eggs, garlic yoghurt) for £16. Our bill was £42 for the both of our brunches + coffees.
The weather was changeable, and we did briefly see a bit of blue sky. We wandered around and Dr said we ought to go to the Shell Grotto. When I asked Dr what it was he said it’s best if I just see it and he was giving nothing away. We wandered around towards the grotto and ended up in another vintage shop on Northdown Road: Sunny Vintage and Retro. After a little while there we walked to Shell Grotto.
Shell Grotto
It’s a very plain house with a mannequin made of shells, a small entrance into what seems to be just a shop that sells shells and gifts.

It sells a huge variety of shells. So many and so perfectly similar, I thought they weren’t real, I thought they were factory made. But they are real shells. They are a biproduct of the food industry and if I could I’d have bought one of each as they are just beautiful! I thought what an amazing shop!

But then comes the surprise. We get into a queue and Dr tells us it’s £6 per person for the grotto itself! Ooooooh, what… there is more? We queue, but because it’s busy down there we have to wait for 5 minutes before we can go. We had to leave our bags behind the counter because it’s ‘very fragile down there and we’re told not to touch the walls. Down we go. Watch the video. There we so many questions swirling in my head, but yes, it was an unexpected, once in a lifetime experience, for sure! No one knows who, why or when this shell encrusted dungeon was made, but it’s just incredible to walk in this curvy, shelly maze. It feels like a mixture of spiritual, paganist ritual laced with pure love or art, patterns and incredible dedication. I guess some people had a lot of time on their hands back then. No distractions!
I bought a couple of shells from the shop, but it really was hard to chose. I wanted all of them! They were all so beautiful…
After that amazing adventure we ended up at the biggest junk shop I’ve ever seen in my entire life (a day of biggests and smallests): Junk Deluxe. We concluded this is an acceptable and profitable way to deal with a very serious and epic hoarding issue. It was all a blur and it just never seemed to end. We left after wandering around for about 30mins I think…
Then the weather got pretty serious and we had drinks at The Pickled Fox and then dinner at the George and Heart which cost £40 each. I ate a sirloin steak + chips, a bottle of Ginger Crabbies and banana/sticky toffee pudding.
After that we slowly walked to the station – the weather was the most furious it had been, so we got the full gale winds – which was fun! There were a few people with cowboy hats/boots at pubs and walking to the station. There was some cowboy convention going on: https://countryclubfestival.com/
We got the train at 20:05 and got to London Victoria at around 10pm. Absolutely shattered. Unbelievably, I was hungry so I ate noodles when I got home.
All photos/videos of the day:
